THE COMFORT OF SPRING FOOD

Lighter Dishes With Cozy Flavors

I’ve been wondering if there’s a way to embrace the freshness of spring foods without abandoning the comfort of winter ones.

Every season comes with its own food stereotypes—certain things we expect to crave, expect to cook, or expect to see show up on restaurant menus. By summer, I’m ready for grilled everything, fresh corn, tomatoes. In the fall and winter, it’s roasts, casseroles, something slower, richer.

There’s a rhythm to the seasons of food that feels natural—a rhythm I think we all come to expect.

But spring has always been less clear to me.

We’re squarely in it, and I’ve caught myself thinking more than once lately—what am I actually hungry for? I don’t instinctively reach for a particular dish the way I do in other seasons.

If anything, the only foods that feel distinctly “spring” are tied to holidays—ham, brisket, deviled eggs, dense chocolate cake, or coconut macaroons around Easter or Passover—but beyond that, there isn’t the same sense of definition.

And yet, I’m craving something. I’m just not entirely sure what.

This I do know: I’m craving comfort.

The farmer’s markets are starting to fill in—asparagus, ramps, greens, rhubarb, early berries coming in from different zones—but as much as I like cooking in spring, none of it quite hits or feels that comforting to me. Not in the way summer produce does, or the way winter cooking draws me in and anchors me.

I’ve started to wonder if it’s because I’m not quite ready to let go of winter dishes just yet—or maybe it’s something else. Maybe I’ve come to realize that food truly is emotional. Nostalgic. And yes, seasonal too—but the foods that resonate with me most tend to be richer, more deeply flavorful—something not usually associated with spring or summer. Which might explain why lighter meals don’t always satisfy me in the same way.

I can appreciate a simple piece of fish or a salad, but I’m often left a little hungry—like something’s missing. I realize I’m probably in the minority here, but my taste buds are looking for more depth. More structure. Something with a bit more substance.

As I write this, I think what I’m realizing is that I love deeply flavorful meals year-round. So the question becomes: do dishes we consider “comfort food” have to be relinquished come spring to make way for lighter fare? Or can lighter, more seasonal food offer comfort, too?

I think it can.

COZY YET LIGHT “ISH”

Pasta Makes It Comforting, Zucchini Makes It Bright

Who says the seasons have to be defined by certain dishes? Spring, after all, is the most transitional season of them all. It’s a time when things begin to lighten, yes—but I’ve decided they can still have substance.

And that, more than anything, is what I’ve been leaning into.

Like this really delicious and easy zucchini spaghetti. I first came across this dish years ago at Serafina here in New York City. It was a slightly simpler version than the one here. The components were largely spaghetti, zucchini, basil, butter, and Parmesan—all tossed and cooked together. A very quick, starchy sauce that, when combined, tasted soft and buttery, but fresh and bright, too.

This version is different. When deciding to play around a bit, I reached for some inspiration from the actor—and fabulous cook—Stanley Tucci. I’ve been glued to his cooking series and adventures since their debut a few years ago.

This dish appeared in the very first episode, when he and his wife Felicity discovered it at Lo Scoglio da Tommaso, a small restaurant on the Amalfi Coast some years back. They became obsessed with replicating it, revisited the restaurant when he couldn’t quite get it right, and he has since brought it to near cult status.

The secret? There are many—with lore ranging up and down the Amalfi Coast, from theories of pan-frying versus deep-frying the zucchini, to northern and southern villages serving similar dishes, distinguished by heartier versions (more zucchini, less basil) in the north, and less zucchini with more basil in the south.

But the real distinction between how I’ve previously made this simple dish and this version is frying. In Tucci’s version, which feels like the most authentic Spaghetti alla Nerano, you deep-fry, then refrigerate the zucchini for hours (even better, overnight).

Here’s my confession—please see what works best for you. I’m an iterative cook. Meaning I’ve cooked long enough to riff, to eye certain measures and ingredients, and to generally season and scale to taste much of what I make. While I always try to make a recipe first by following careful instructions—and aspire to make it as perfectly delicious as possible—if I’m in a hurry, I riff.

Hence, here are my shortcuts and adjustments:

I pan fried the zucchini instead of deep fried it. I used avocado oil to fry and drizzled in a little olive oil too (it seemed more Italian-like than avocado to me, though I realize the smoke point for olive oil isn’t great, but mine was good quality). I used thin spaghetti. I used only parmesan reggiano. I added more butter to taste. Lastly, I finished the dish with toasted pine nuts, and then garnished with fresh basil and more grated parmesan cheese.

I had the toasted pine nuts on hand and it just seemed like a good idea—and it was!

I made it mine–and it was absolutely delicious. I can’t wait to see what you do with yours.

Here it is --

Zucchini Spaghetti (or NB’s version of Spaghetti alla Nerano)

Ingredients

• 3-4

  Large zucchini, sliced into one eighth inch rounds

• Sunflower, avocado or high quality olive oil, for frying

• 8

  ounces, spaghetti (I use thin spaghetti)

• 1

  clove garlic, minced (I do not use)

• 2-4

  (to taste) grated parmesan cheese–or other such as pecorino romano, aged provolone (piccante), caciocavallo, or provolone del monaco.

• 1

  small bunch of fresh basil leaves (to taste), cut into medium size chiffonades (basil leaves are stacked and rolled lengthwise like small, tight cigars and sliced cross-wise, creating spirals)

• 2

  tablespoons of butter, to taste

• Salt for pasta water, and to finish for taste

• Fresh ground black pepper, to taste

• Optional: toasted pine nuts (this is so not part of the original recipe, but just felt right and I found it complimented)

  
  

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Take thinly sliced zucchini rounds and deep-fry in batches in sunflower oil until golden (or even slightly burnt). In my case, again, I pan fried the zucchini rings in batches.

2. Step 2

   Place the fried zucchini on a paper towel and generously blot to absorb oil; place in a bowl to cool, then cover and place in the fridge overnight. Pull out again once ready to make the dish.

3. Step 3

   Boil thin spaghetti in salted water until al dente. Reserve a cup of cooking water after draining spaghetti to use to bind the sauce.

4. Step 4

   While the spaghetti is cooking, heat olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add zucchini and salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until it starts to release juices, soften, and break down, 3 to 5 minutes. Add a couple splashes of the pasta water to the zucchini, but don't overdo it. Break zucchini into small pieces with the edge of a spoon or spatula. Reduce heat to low and toss in basil and butter; stir until butter melts.

5. Step 5

   Grab spaghetti once al dente with tongs and begin transferring it directly into the sauce; stir until coated. Mix in Parmigiano reggiano cheese. Add a final splash of pasta water and adjust salt (and in my case, butter) if needed.

6. Step 6

   Serve with more grated cheese and fresh basil and enjoy.

NOTHING SAYS SPRING LIKE GREEN

Asparagus

The quintessential ingredient in any spring dish, asparagus is one of the first crops to emerge each year and offers a preview of the brighter flavors to come. There are plenty of ways to use it, but to really let it take center stage, this is a great one.

This recipe is inspired by a restaurant that was on Madison Avenue at 64th Street in Manhattan for years—Nello. My office used to be across the street, so I ate there constantly.

I always looked forward to late March and early April, when their asparagus with chopped egg and tomato would make its appearance. It’s simple, but delicious. Served with good bread, alone or with a little pasta on the side, it’s the perfect light but satisfying meal.

Here you have it, a spring favorite—

Asparagus with Chopped Egg, Baby Tomatoes, and Mustard Vinaigrette

Dijon Mustard Vinaigrette

Ingredients

• 2 Tsp of dijon mustard

• 1 tbsp of lemon juice

• 1 small shallot minced

• Olive oil

• Salt

• Pepper

  
  

Preparation

1. Step 1

   In a small bowl, combine the Dijon mustard, lemon juice, minced shallot, salt, and pepper.

2. Step 2

   Slowly whisk in the olive oil until the vinaigrette is emulsified into a smooth consistency.

3. Step 3

   Let the mixture sit for 2 minutes to allow the flavors to macerate.

4. Step 4

   Taste and adjust salt and pepper as needed.

5. Step 5

   Set aside.

Asparagus with Chopped Egg and Baby Tomatoes

Prep time

30 min

Total time

30 min

Serves

4

Ingredients

• 1 bunch asparagus, washed, and rough ends snapped off, or trimmed, and peeled 1-1/12”

• 3 large eggs, boiled, egg yolks removed and whites finely chopped.

• 1 pint tomatoes, baby romas, heirloom or Kamuto, my picks. If small, no need to chop, but if a larger variety, chop and drain any excess water, into a small chop.

• Maldon’s salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste.

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Boil eggs for 10-12 minutes. Once boiled, remove and place in a bowl of ice water for a further 5-10 minutes. Peel the eggs, remove the cooked yolk from the eggs (unless you’d like to use), and chop the remaining whites into a small dice. Set aside to bring to room temperature or refrigerate.

2. Step 2

   Blanche the asparagus in a shallow basin of water in a saute pan 2-3 minutes and immediately move to a large bowl of ice water. Once cooled for a few minutes, remove asparagus and drain on a paper towel. Set aside to bring to room temperature or refrigerate if using later. Just bring to room temperature prior to assembling.

3. Step 3

   If chopping your tomatoes into smaller dice, do this, salt, and set aside.

4. Step 4

   Place the asparagus on a serving platter or dish. Top with chopped egg whites, tomatoes, Salt generously with Maldon’s sea salt. Drizzle all with mustard vinaitgrettte. Finish with fresh, cracked black pepper.

SPRING WOK RICE

Chilled And Fried

This is a no-recipe recipe I made recently with leftover rice that really surprised me. It was very good. Pretty much any fried rice is tasty, but the addition of fresh spring vegetables brought an incredible brightness to this dish.

I think it was also the right balance of soy sauce and seasoning, which, in this case, is entirely to taste. This is one you can truly riff on.

I purposely use day-old rice that’s been refrigerated to reduce the starch and glucose impact. It metabolizes more slowly, which is easier to digest.

Spring Vegetable and Egg Fried Rice

My no-recipe recipe. Use any combination of vegetables that you like or have on hand.

Prep time

15 min

Total time

15 min

Serves

4

Equipment

Wok or deep frying/saute pan

Ingredients

• 2 cups cooked white rice that’s been refrigerated overnight.

• Sesame oil

• Olive oil

• 1 small onion

• 2 carrots, peeled and diced

• 1 cup, or to taste or preference, cooked asparagus, but into 1” pieces, cut diagonally

• ¾ cup, or to eye, small petit peas frozen peas

• ¾ cup, or to eye, snap peas, cut into bite-size pieces

• 1 cup, shredded cabbage, optional

• 3 eggs

• Toasted sesame seeds

• Soy sauce

• Salt to taste

• Fresh ground pepper, to taste

• Green onion or scallion, greens included, sliced thinly, optional

• ¾ cup, or to taste, toasted cashews, rough chopped or whole, optional

  
  

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Combine a good glunk of sesame and olive oils into a large wok.

2. Step 2

   Add onion and carrots. Saute until softened and translucent.

3. Step 3

   Add asparagus, peas, snap peas and cabbage to the onion and carrot mixture and toss to combine, cooking through.

4. Step 4

   Add the rice and toss with spring vegetables.

5. Step 5

   Push the combination- fried vegetables and rice-- to one side of the wok, then add your cracked eggs to the other side, scrambling them as they cook, and then fold them into the fried vegetables and rice once finished to combine.

6. Step 6

   Add 3 tablespoons, or a few very light glunks to taste, soy sauce to the mixture, along with toasted sesame seeds and toss again.

7. Step 7

   Salt and pepper to taste.

8. Step 8

   Plate the fried vegetable rice and top with toasted cashews and scallions and serve.

CITRUS SALAD

Stand Alone Or Served With A Side of Protein

This salad has long been a family favorite and is served year-round (which reinforces my point—comfort food doesn’t have to disappear throughout the year), but it’s especially good in spring, when my favorite sumo citrus is still lingering from winter.

The sweet and savory contrast of cheddar and fresh orange does its work—alongside the crunch of toasted pine nuts and croutons. And the old-school French vinaigrette (as in the bottled, red-colored kind) is a healthier—and more delicious—dupe from a bottled dressing I used to love that really kicks things into high gear. People love this salad.

It’s hearty and easily stands on its own, but I often serve it with roast chicken, and sometimes roasted potatoes with rosemary. Both are perfect complements.

Citrus Salad

Washed and prepared romaine or gem lettuce cut or torn into bite size pieces. Arugula is a great option I often add too, especially when the flat leaf variety becomes available in the spring and summer, to add a peppery bite.

Prep time

20 min

Total time

20 min

Serves

4

Ingredients

• Washed and prepared romaine or gem lettuce cut or torn into bite size pieces. Arugula is a great option I often add too, especially when the flat leaf variety becomes available in the spring and summer, to add a peppery bite.

• 1-2 sumo or navel oranges, sectioned and cut into a small bite-size dice

• 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese, or more, less to taste

• 1 cup croutons, homemade or store-bought (if store bought, I like Chatham Village Garden Herb)

• ½ cup pine nuts

• Mosness vinaigrette (recipe below)

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Add onion, vinegar, water, salt to a bowl and mix. add remaining ingredients. slowly add olive oil.

2. Step 2

   Whisk until fully emulsified and smooth. Taste and adjust salt and pepper as needed.

NB’s Old School French Vinaigrette:

I pre-make this and set aside.

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 tsp onion

• 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce

• 2 oz white vinegar

• 1 oz water

• 1 Tbsp ketchup

• 1 Tbsp honey

• 1/2 tsp paprika

• 1/8 tsp garlic powder

• 1/2 cup olive oil

• 1 1/2 tsp salt, or to taste

• Pepper to taste

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Combine onion, worcestershire sauce, vinegar, water, ketchup, honey and spices. Slowly whisk in olive oil until emulsified. Salt and pepper to taste. Use immediately or refrigerate for up to a week.

LETTUCE WRAPS

South Of The Border Style

This is another one of my “discovery” recipes that happened by chance, out of curiosity and a hankering for something tasty. It’s completely made up on my part, but partially inspired by the lettuce wraps I get at Mr. Chow in New York and London—and Asian fusion restaurants. Mine has a sweeter spin, with a kick of hot honey.

And if that sounds strange, it gets stranger—but stay with me, I swear it’s great. Because I like to use proteins as vehicles for multiple meals, the base of this recipe is spiced ground chicken, which I often keep on rotation for tacos.

The ground chicken is flavored with all the typical warm spices and herbs like cumin, chili powder, and cilantro, more common to south of the border than Southeast Asia. But despite this mash-up, it’s delicious. If this scares you off, no worries—just substitute ginger, garlic, soy or hoisin sauce, and sesame for the Mexican spices.

Spiced South of The Border Lettuce Wraps with Hot Honey

Prep time

30 min

Total time

30 min

Serves

4-6

Ingredients

• 1 lb organic ground chicken

• Gem or romaine lettuce leaves, washed and leaves left whole

• Momofuko Chili Crunch Hot Honey

• Olive oil

• 1 small onion, diced

• 1 jalapeno, center seeds removed, diced

• ½ cup cilantro, finely chopped.

• 1 red, orange or yellow bell pepper, optional, diced

• 2 TBSP worcestershire sauce, to taste

• 2 TBSP cumin, to taste

• 1 TBSP chili powder, to taste

• 1 ½ TBSP garlic powder or garlic salt, to taste

• 1 TBSP red chili flakes, to taste

• Salt

• Pepper

  
  

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Place a few glunks of olive oil in a large saute pan or skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and peppers and saute a few minutes until translucent.

2. Step 2

   Add the ground chicken and add the tablespoons–or a few dashes– of worcestershire sauce to the mixture, breaking up chicken and combining with onion and pepper mixture.

3. Step 3

   As the ground chicken begins to brown, add cumin, chili powder, garlic, red chili flakes, salt and pepper to taste. Be generous with the spices, salt, and pepper, season well. Add the cilantro.

4. Step 4

   Continue to break up the ground chicken, crumbling and combining until brown, into small, bite-size crumbles. Turn off, or remove from the heat.

5. Step 5

   Prepare your lettuce leaves by opening and laying flat or into “boats” on a serving platter or dish. Using a smaller sized spoon, fill each lettuce leaf with the spiced ground chicken and top with hot honey.

   
   

FOOD WITHOUT SEASON

When It’s Good, It’s Good– and Comforting

I think what this week really clarified for me is that food doesn’t have to follow rules as closely as I once thought.

I notice the times of the year, and very much look forward to what comes into the markets and what I’m seasonally craving. But what I know to be equally true is that I’m consistently drawn to food that feels satisfying—food with depth, with structure, with a sense that it’s actually going to hold me for a while.

And maybe that’s the point. Comfort isn’t seasonal, it just evolves. It lightens a bit, brightens a bit, but it doesn’t disappear, nor should it.

The foods we return to, the ones we adjust and revisit over the year, and over time, are the ones that become part of how we live everyday. They carry memory, they ground us—they’re what we crave, so no matter the time of year—why not enjoy them?

This season, instead of letting go of comfort, I’m simply reworking it—but still keeping it exactly where it belongs.